Backyard Egg Salad Sandwiches

Glorious Cleo the Egg Layer

I've never felt the need to Twitter any chicken news, until today. What could be so important that it had to be instantly shared across the world? Well, today I witnessed something that I wanted to immediately tell everyone I knew: Today I watched Cleo lay an egg!

This afternoon when I went into the coop to collect the eggs, there was Cleo sitting in the nest cooing and making all sorts of soft maternal sounds. She didn't seem bothered by my presence, so I settled down in the coop and proceeded to wait and watch. It can take a chicken 20 to 30 minutes to lay an egg, so I had no idea how long I'd have to wait. In the meantime, I patiently sat there wishing I'd brought the camera.

She cooed and wiggled her butt, used her head to throw nesting material around and a few times repositioned herself to get the perfect position, all the while keeping up a low gentle murmur. Finally, when my legs were starting to cramp and I wondered if I should leave her to it, she raised her legs and rear keeping her head low, and in an instant out popped an egg. The egg was shiny and wet with the bloom that dries quickly but keeps bacteria from entering the shell. She instantly went to work moving the egg with her beak into the corner of the nest, presumably to protect it and keep it safe.

At that moment, as I watched her gently and carefully move that unfertilized egg that would never hatch into anything, I felt an overwhelming sadness that maybe I shouldn't be snatching her precious eggs and eating them for breakfast. But of course, they will never hatch and tomorrow she will lay another one and such I guess is the life of a chick. However, her gentleness and care was a good reminder to me of the precious gifts my chicks give.

Cleo's Egg

I do personally thank each of my chicks every day for the eggs they lay, but I especially thanked Cleo today for letting me witness her miracle. I'll eat that egg with extra blessings and wonder.

Cleo's eggs are beautiful. They are olive green on the outside, but blue on the inside! The color of an egg will not change the flavor, but it does make it more interesting to peel. Lulu's eggs are light blue inside and out, while Roxanne's eggs are brown on the outside and white on the inside.


Sometimes the best way to enjoy backyard eggs is the simplest. Today for lunch we had egg salad sandwiches. Yum....it added a touch of spring to this sunny winter day.

Backyard Egg Salad Sandwiches

6 eggs, preferably at least 1 week old organic, free-range eggs
1 large shallot, minced
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground pepper
1/8 teaspoon salt
1/3 cup mayonnaise
sliced artisan bread
mixed baby greens

Place eggs in a medium saucepan, cover with hot water and bring to a gentle boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer very gently for 9 minutes (the water should lazily burp and bubble occasionally, but the eggs should never bounce or rattle; adjust the heat as necessary). Place the eggs in a bowl of ice water until cool. Peel and chop the eggs.

I usually chop them in my hand just as my grandmother did and mother still does. Does your mother or grandmother do this too? I know it's not the safest, but I fall back into old habits when making this recipe. Just for the record, it's safer to use a cutting board.

Toss the eggs with the shallots, pepper and salt.


Gently stir in the mayonnaise.


Makes 4 huge sandwiches or 6 normal-size sandwiches

Scrambled Egg Breakfast Wraps

Garden Salsa:
1/2 small tomato
1/4 cup chopped onion
2 tablespoons chopped green bell pepper
2 tablespoons coarsely chopped cilantro
Salt and pepper to taste
Hot sauce to taste

Wrap:
1 or 2 eggs
Salt and pepper to taste
1/2 tablespoon butter
1 flour tortilla
1/4 cup shredded cheddar cheese
Sour cream to taste

1. Combine all the salsa ingredients in a small bowl and set aside.
2. Whisk the eggs in a medium bowl until frothy. Sprinkle with the salt and pepper. Melt the butter in a small nonstick saucepan over medium heat. Pour in the eggs and cook over medium to medium-low heat, stirring constantly, until the eggs begin to form large curds but are still very moist. Spoon the eggs down the center of the tortilla.
3. Sprinkle the eggs with the cheese. Top with the sour cream and a couple of spoonfuls of salsa; roll up.
   

Serves 1

Toad in the Hole

1 tablespoon butter
1 slice bread
1 egg
Salt and pepper to taste

1. Butter both sides of the bread. Cut out a circle in the middle of the bread using a glass. Place the bread, along with the cut out piece, in a nonstick skillet over medium heat. Break an egg into the center hole of the bread and season the egg with salt and pepper.
2. Cook the bread and egg 2 to 3 minutes or until the bread is toasted and the egg is set on the bottom. Very carefully turn the bread with the egg and the cut out piece of bread over, and cook until the bread is lightly toasted.
   

Serves 1

Do-It-Yourself-Deviled Eggs

1 hard-cooked egg*
1 tablespoon mayonnaise
1 to 2 teaspoons sliced green onions
Your choice of seasonings to taste (use very small amounts to begin with and taste before adding more)
Options: Curry powder, Asian sesame oil, soy sauce, fish sauce, hot sauce, mustard, smoked paprika, chutney, garlic, cheese, lemon or lime, etc.
1 teaspoon chopped fresh herbs (such as cilantro, parsley, dill, tarragon, basil)
Salt and pepper to taste

1. Peel the egg. Slice the egg in half lengthwise. Gently scoop out the egg yolk and place in a small bowl. Reserve the egg whites. Mash the yolk using a fork until finely crumbled. Stir in the mayonnaise until blended. Stir in the green onions.
2. Stir in any seasonings to taste, if desired.
3. Stir in any fresh herbs if desired. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
4. Spoon the egg yolk mixture back into the egg whites.
   

Serves 1

*To hard-cook the egg, place the egg in a small saucepan and cover with water. Bring to a boil over high heat. When the water is just starting to boil, turn down the heat until small bubbles form and boil gently for 9 minutes. Immediately place the egg in ice water or very cold water and let sit until cold.

Goat Cheese Stuffed Eggs with Fresh Herbs

(photo taken by Stafford Photography)

Goat Cheese Stuffed Eggs with Fresh Herbs

This recipe of mine was first featured in the April/May 2008 issue of Cooking Pleasures magazine. Goat cheese adds creaminess and a slight tang to these deviled eggs.

6 hard-cooked eggs, halved, separated
2 ounces soft goat cheese, room temperature
6 tablespoons mayonnaise (I prefer Hellmann's)
2 teaspoons minced shallots
2 teaspoons minced fresh tarragon, chives, chervil, dill and/or basil
1/8 teaspoon salt
pinch freshly ground pepper

Mash egg yolks in a medium bowl with a pastry blender or a fork until well-crumbled. Add the cheese and continue to mash until blended. Blend in the mayonnaise until smooth. Stir in the shallots, herbs, salt and pepper.

Pipe the yolk mixture into the egg whites using a pastry bag and star tip or spoon the mixture into the whites.

Makes 12 deviled eggs

The Perfect Egg

The value of eggs is rising like a soufflé.

The pair of cardinals that mate every spring in our yard are back singing love songs. I know this because the lusty singing starts very early in the morning and wakes up the chicks before it's barely light. By the time I trudge out to the coop the girls already are cackling at top volume telling me the day is half gone.

The girls must also feel spring is on its way because they've been nesting. Not sitting over eggs in their nest, but rather creating nests wherever they feel like it. Lulu is developing quite a skill. In spite of having a clean nest box every morning, she has lately decided to play "Find the Egg" with me. She's laid eggs in the straw at the end of the run where I can't reach them. She's laid eggs under the evergreen tree next to the coop and she's laid eggs in the snow to crate a frozen variation. I almost stepped on one the other night because it was dark and I had no idea it was there.

Nesting Under the Evergreen

Maybe the girls are trying to hide their precious eggs. The latest news shows that the value of eggs is rising like a soufflé. New studies point to evidence that eggs not only lower blood pressure but are good for the heart. Even dieticians are recommending one egg a day as a great way to add protein to your diet at little cost. (On a side note, with the economy sinking, the value of backyard chickens appears to be rising. There was a local theft of five hens this past weekend causing all of us to rethink our coop security.)

When I want to truly savor the fresh taste of these precious eggs I opt for something simple. Lately I've been on a quest to find the best soft-cooked eggs. Perfecting the soft-cooked egg is a bit of an art form. The whites should be firm but still very tender. The yolk should be creamy on the outside and soft and runny in the center. Unlike other egg dishes, there is no way to tell if you've got it right until you slice off the top and slide your spoon in--then it's too late to make any changes.

I've tested numerous methods by chefs and home cooks alike and have had success with two very different methods. Choose your favorite.

Perfection

Perfect Soft-Cooked Eggs

Tips: Start with cold large eggs.
Choose the smallest saucepan that will fit the number of eggs in one layer.
Use gentle heat, never boil the eggs rapidly.

Method #1: Gentle Simmer

• Bring a small saucepan of water to a full boil over high heat.
• Gently lower the eggs into the boiling water and immediately turn the heat down to medium-low keeping the eggs at a very soft gentle simmer.
• Cook the eggs for 5 1/2 to 6 minutes, adjusting the heat as necessary.
• Run the eggs under cold water for about 30 seconds to stop the cooking and serve.

Method #2: Off the Heat

• Place the eggs in a small saucepan and barely cover with cold water.
• Bring the water to a full rapid boil over high heat.
• Immediately remove the pan from the heat and let stand, uncovered, 4 minutes.
• Run the eggs under cold water for about 30 seconds to stop the cooking and serve.

Brown-Buttered Eggs

With cooking, simpler is often better. It’s especially true with freshly laid eggs. Lulu is my prize-winning egg layer. In spite of her cranky disposition, she lays more eggs than either of the other two. Right now, she’s the only one laying in this cold spell we’re having.

With fewer eggs, every single egg is precious. We eat the eggs with little embellishment to truly appreciate their fresh flavor. This recipe is a great example: A simple fried egg topped with nutty-flavored brown butter and a splash of lemon over toasted artisan bread. Delightful!

Brown-Buttered Eggs

2 eggs
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
2 slices artisan bread, toasted and lightly brushed with extra-virgin olive oil
1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice
Coarse sea salt
Freshly ground pepper

Heat a small nonstick skillet over medium heat just until the pan becomes warm. Add 1/2 tablespoon of the butter to the pan, letting it slowly melt while swirling the pan to evenly coat the bottom. Add the eggs and cover, lowering the heat to medium-low when the butter and eggs begin to bubble—a sign they’re cooking too fast. Cook 1 to 2 minutes or until the whites are just set but the yolks are still runny.

Arrange the eggs over the toasted bread. Return the skillet to medium heat and add the remaining ½ tablespoon of butter. Melt the butter while swirling the pan and cook briefly, about 10 to 20 seconds, until the butter begins to smell toasted and turns a nutty-brown color. Watch carefully as the butter can over-brown very quickly. Pour in the lemon juice but stand back as it sizzles and spits. Immediately pour over the eggs and toast and sprinkle with salt and pepper.

Serves 2

Israeli Vegetable Tart

I now have two chicks swingin’ their hips with feathers flying in the wind. Lulu has joined Roxanne and started molting. Casting off a coat of feathers and growing new ones takes a tremendous amount of energy leaving nothing additional for egg laying. With Roxanne still littering the yard with her own feathers, it means Cleo is the only one laying. She’s been trying to do her part but the weather is cool and she’s also slowing down.

We’re eating fewer eggs as a result. While longing for an egg dish, albeit one that needs only a few eggs, I came upon this wonderful recipe which uses only two eggs. It’s filled with Mediterranean vegetables and crowned with feta cheese and nuts.



Israeli Vegetable Tart
I adapted this recipe from a beautiful new book on Israeli cooking The Book of New Israeli Food by Janna Gur http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0805212248. The tart is called a pashtida, which is Hebrew for any dish (with or without a crust) baked with eggs and cheese and filled with vegetables, meat or fish.

Dough for 1 (9-inch) single pie crust

Filling:
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 small eggplant, chopped ½-inch (about 3 cups)
1 medium onion, halved, sliced
1 large garlic clove, minced
1 small zucchini, chopped (1 cup)
¼ cup chopped cilantro
2 eggs
½ cup half and half
¼ teaspoon salt
1/8 teaspoon freshly ground pepper

Topping:
¾ cup halved cherry tomatoes
3/4 cup coarsely chopped feta cheese
2 tablespoons pine nuts or chopped walnuts

Place an oven rack on the bottom setting. Heat the oven to 400°F. Line a 9-inch tart pan with removable bottom with the pie dough, extending the sides slightly above the top of the tart pan. Cover and refrigerate while preparing the filling.

Drizzle 1 tablespoon of the oil over the eggplant and toss in a medium bowl. Spread the eggplant in a single layer on a rimmed baking sheet. Bake 15 to 20 minutes or until the eggplant is lightly browned. Cool completely.

Meanwhile, sauté the onion in the remaining 1 tablespoon oil in a medium skillet over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally, until the onion is lightly browned. Add the zucchini to the onion and continue sautéing 2 to 3 minutes or until the zucchini is lightly browned. Stir in the garlic and cook 30 seconds or until the garlic becomes fragrant. Cool completely.

Whisk together the eggs, half and half, salt and pepper. Scatter the eggplant over the bottom of the tart and top with the onion and zucchini mixture. Pour the egg mixture over the vegetables then float the tomatoes, cut side up, in the cream. Arrange the cheese and nuts over the vegetables. Line a rimmed baking sheet with foil and place the tart pan in the center.

Bake the tart with the baking sheet on the bottom oven rack 35 to 40 minutes or until the crust is lightly browned and a knife inserted into the custard comes out clean.

Serves 6

Autumn Salad with Crisp Bacon, Apples and Softly Cooked Eggs

I love the taste of softly cooked eggs in salads. In this salad the tender white of the eggs combined with the soft yolks create the perfect contrast to the crisp tangy apple and the smoky bacon. Use the famous applewood-smoked Neuske’s Bacon www.neuskesbacon.com for the best flavor.

I’ve recently been introduced to Northern Lights Blue cheese and its creamy sweet peppery flavor is the perfect match for this salad. It’s made at the University of Minnesota and can be found in many Twin Cities cheese shops. For those of you out of state, try Maytag Blue from Iowa. It’s readily available across the country or check out their website at www.maytagdairyfarms.com.

Oregano Dressing:
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 1/2 teaspoons apple cider vinegar
2 teaspoons minced shallots
1 teaspoon chopped fresh oregano or a generous ¼ teaspoon dried oregano (preferably Greek oregano)
Pinch salt and freshly ground pepper

Salad:
4 eggs
3 cups mixed greens
1 apple, unpeeled, sliced (use a crisp sweet-tart apple such as Honeycrisp)
4 strips bacon, cooked, coarsely crumbled
¼ cup pitted Kalamata olives
¼ cup crumbled blue cheese or feta cheese

Blend the all of the dressing ingredients together in a small blender, hand blender or mini food processor until combined and slightly thickened. Or make the dressing by hand. Whisk all of the ingredients except the olive oil in a small bowl and slowly whisk in the olive oil until combined.

Cover the eggs with about 1-inch of water in a small saucepan. Bring the water to a gentle boil over medium heat and boil 4 minutes, adjusting the heat when needed to keep the water at a gentle boil. Run the eggs under cold running water about 30 seconds or until they are warm, but not hot. Carefully peel the eggs, the whites will be firm but the yolks will still be slightly soft.

Meanwhile, place the greens in the center of two plates. Arrange the apples over the greens and scatter the bacon over the apples. Sprinkle the olives around the salads and top each salad with the blue cheese. Drizzle the dressing over the salads.

Place 2 eggs around each salad and cut each in half. (Because the yolks are soft you need to cut the eggs while on the salad plate so the yolks can gently ooze into the salad.) Lightly sprinkle the eggs with salt and pepper.

Serves 2 (this recipe can be easily doubled)

The Best Fresh Raspberry Pancakes

In walking out to the coop these past couple of mornings my thoughts turned to pancakes. I don’t make pancakes often, but on the first weekend of fall they’re exactly what I crave. Fall raspberries are in abundance at the farmer’s market so I decided to make my favorite cornmeal pancakes sweetened with berries.

What makes these cornmeal cakes special, beyond adding a couple of freshly laid eggs to the batter, is the extra step of slightly cooking the cornmeal first. I’ve never been a fan of baked goods where the cornmeal adds particles of grit, like something the chickens would like. Instead, these cakes are thin, delicate and light, almost a cross between crepes and pancakes. For even smoother pancakes you can let the batter rest overnight, making them easier to make in the morning.

These cakes are perfect with just a sprinkling of powdered sugar and extra berries or better yet a light drizzle of superb real maple syrup like the Pure New York Maple Syrup made by the family of my friend Kathy.


FRESH RASPBERRY CORNMEAL PANCAKES

½ cup cornmeal, finely stone-ground if available
2 cups milk, low fat or skim milk is fine
¼ cup unsalted butter, cut up
1 cup all-purpose flour
2 tablespoons sugar
2 teaspoons baking powder
¼ teaspoon baking soda
dash of salt
2 eggs
canola oil for frying
2 cups fresh raspberries

Dump the cornmeal into a large glass measuring cup and slowly whisk in 1 ½ cups of the milk. Add the butter and heat in the microwave on high until the milk comes to a boil. This will take 1 to 2 minutes or more depending on your microwave; but watch carefully so it doesn’t boil over. Once the milk is hot, the cornmeal will begin to cook and thicken so immediately whisk until the butter is melted. Whisk in the remaining ½ cup milk and pour into a large bowl. Let the mixture cool slightly, stirring often.

Quickly whisk in the flour, sugar, baking powder, baking soda and salt. Add the eggs, one at a time, and whisk until the batter is smooth. The pancakes can be made immediately or the batter can be covered and refrigerated overnight for smoother pancakes. Either way is fine.

Heat a griddle to 350°F. or a nonstick skillet over medium heat. Brush generously with oil. (No nonstick spray please, while perfect for many things, with pancakes it will bake onto your griddle or nonstick pan and you’ll never be able to get them clean.) Pour a scant ¼ cup of batter on the griddle and scatter a few raspberries over each pancake. Cook until the bubbles have formed and popped and the underside is golden brown. Carefully turn; the pancakes are delicate so use a large spatula to get underneath the entire cake. Cook until the underside is golden. Repeat with the remaining batter. Serve sprinkled with powdered sugar and accompanied by maple syrup.

Makes about 20 pancakes

Copyright Janice Cole 2008